Palm Springs Fling

Image via Nicole Morell

Mid-century California modernism at its apex is on view at every turn of my bike ride. I love it here. The houses - compact, single story, all angles and edges - are a contradiction to the ring of rolling mountains in the background. But it works somehow. Maybe it's the small scale or the low to the ground design, but houses seem to blend into the landscape, rather than dominate it. 

I laugh and cringe while reading the story of how Frank Sinatra asked a local architect to build him a two-storey red brick Georgian when he made his first million. The architect, a young guy, knew a red brick Georgian in the desert would be the ruin of his reputation and presented Sinatra with two sets of house plans: the Georgian and this desert-style ranch, which was ultimately - thankfully - given the green light.  

Frank Sinatra's Twin Palms home 

Image via The Amado

​When Palm Springs fell out of favour in the late 1960s the town was left with an architectural legacy that was left largely untouched until the revival of interest in mid century design decades later. I find it gratifying to see these beauties restored and re-imagined rather than replaced.  

The Amado is a collection of five super stylish suites located in a 1955 motel. Rooms are clustered around this courtyard pool. 

image via the desert collective

Image via Palm Springs Life 

I read about and then seek out houses known as Wexlers, Alexanders, Codys and Krisels - the architects and builders who defined California modernism in the desert. Donald Wexler's prefab steel houses were assembled on-site in a couple of days. Priced at $14,000 when built, they were envisioned as vacation homes for middle class folks. Modestly sized by today's standards at 1500 SF or so, the use of glass and elevated ceilings make them feel spacious.  The folded steel roof was one of the customization options. 

Image via Palm Springs Life

I become obsessed with George and Helene Alexander, the so-called king and queen of Palm Springs circa 1962. He was the lauded builder of 2000 mid-century tract homes in Palm Springs. She was the socialite-philanthropist wife, who hung out with Barbara Sinatra. They rode horses, water-skiied, played tennis, hosted fabulous parties and were praised for their charitable and civic contributions. They lived here, in a house he built that was called "The House of Tomorrow."

Image via Nicole Morell

At the height of their success in 1965 George, Helene and his parents died in a private plane crash, leaving behind a young daughter. It's said the city of Palm Springs went into mourning. Within a few years development moved south to Palm Desert and modernism fell out of favour. 

Image via Elvis Honeymoon

The Alexander's home, on Ladera Circle, is now known as the Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway. The (other) King leased the Alexander estate in 1967 and lived there with Priscilla for a year after they married.